Full Citation

Title: Celestial Suppers: The Political Economy of Americas Chop Suey Craze, 1900-1930

Citation Type: Conference Paper

Publication Year: 2009

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Abstract: According to culinary scholars, American cuisine retained a strongly British character through most of its history. Despite the waves of immigrants from many parts of the world, ethnic cuisine did not gain a place at the American table until the food revolution of the 1970s. This paper challenges that view by developing and analyzing systematic, quantitative measures of Americas foodways. I demonstrate that beginning about 1900, Americans began to embrace Chinese food. It was the start of a love affair that continues to this day.I attribute Americas chop suey craze to the entrepreneurial efforts of the Chinese who arrived in America during the Exclusion Era, the period between 1882 and 1943 when a series of legislative initiatives severely circumscribed their options. Their entry into the United States was made difficult. They couldnt naturalize. Restrictions were placed on their ability to marry, conduct businesses, and educate their children. Racism limited their employment and housing options. The Chinese responded to these constraints by organizing, moving into self-employment, and dispersing into small cities and towns throughout the country, often living as the only person of their race in their home community. When Americans began to express an interest in inexpensive, healthful, and exotic restaurant fare, the Chinese were poised to respond. A fad was born.

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Authors: Carter, Susan B.

Conference Name: Asia-Pacific Economic and Business History Conference

Publisher Location: Gakushuin University, Tokyo, Japan

Data Collections: IPUMS USA

Topics: Other

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